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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.